Trailer Toad Assembly Instructions.
These
instructions will help guide you through the "Basic Setup" to get your Trailer Toad assembled and attached to your
tow vehicle and trailer. The "Fine Tuning" will be up to each owner and if you have a question, please call me:
(319) 404-7001 Jok Nicholson
The Trailer-Toad comes about 90% assembled. We are now supplying a new trailer ball with each Trailer Toad unit. It
is a 25K-rated 2-5/16” ball, the best we can find. If you need to fine tune your setup and need a shorter ball, they
are available at most RV or auto parts stores. I recommend a 12,000 lb minimum rating on the ball, a higher rating is even
better.
The first thing to do is make sure you have all the tools you will
need. Here is a basic checklist:
* 1/2" and 9/16" open end wrenches. For fender fasteners.
* 1/2"
and 9/16 socket and ratchet. For fender fasteners and equalizer chains.
* 3/4" open end or adjustable Crescent wrench.
For equalizer bar brackets on trailer tongue.
* 13/16" socket and torque wrench to torque lug nuts on wheels.
75 ft. lbs.
* 1-1/16" and 1-1/8" open end wrenches and 1/2" drive sockets. For hitch head and drawbar
bolts.
* Couple of wire-ties to fasten the extension cord to the plastic clips on left side of frame to secure it.
* Large pipe-wrench to tighten trailer ball with. You will also need a large wrench to jam between the nut on the ball and
the hitch head to prevent it from turning as you tighten the ball. There might be a better tool for this but I haven't
found one yet. Make sure it is has Loctite on the threads and you tighten it to at least 150 ft. lbs.
The first thing you need to do is install the equalizer bars in the hitch head. The reason they need to go on first
is they will not swing far enough to slide into place with the tires installed. This is a little inconvenient but it also
means the equalizer bars have NO CHANCE of coming off, that's the good part. Once those are in place slip the hitch head
over the rear drawbar on the Trailer Toad. Slide in two of the 3/4" bolts, no need to put nuts on them yet. Now you can
push down on the equalizer bars and moving the Trailer Toad around just got a lot easier.
Next, the powder coat on the Toad sometimes makes the bolts tough to slide in so I remove the powder coat from the
holes in the front of the Toad. Line up the holes in the L-shaped draw bar and the holes in the front of the Trailer-Toad
frame. Everyone’s hitch seems to be a different height so I start by trying to get the top of the front cross-member
about 19" from the ground.Just make sure you lube either the draw bar or the inside of the receiver with grease or anti-seize
before you slide it in the receiver opening. Insert two of the hardened bolts, slip the washers on and finger-tighten the
3/4” nuts. The front two brackets on the Trailer Toad will have bushings on one side. These sometimes are stuck
due to powder-coating. You can tap them in or out to make room for the drawbar. They will push in against the draw-bar when
you tighten the bolts when you are done with setup. Just make sure you have the bushings in place, otherwise the bolts will
be loose in the mounting holes. You may have to adjust it so there is no need to tighten the fasteners yet.
The next step is to get the new hitch-head set at the correct height. Once the hitch head is on the Toad, I install
the new trailer ball. Using the Toad’s weight you can get the trailer ball retaining nut tight. I recommend you use
Red Loctite on the threads. With your trailer on level ground or by calling the manufacturer, determine the correct ride height
of the coupler of the trailer. Standard height is between 19 inches and 20 inches. I adjust the top of the ball 1" to
2" higher than the trailer coupler recommended height. Heavier trailers can start higher. Your actual tongue weight will
determine how much compression you will need to allow for. This allows the Trailer-Toad torsion axle to settle somewhat and
end up at the correct height for the top of the trailer ball.
IMPORTANT: You MUST use the equalizer bars
for the Trailer Toad to function correctly. Without the equalizer bars the rear of the Trailer Toad will "roll downward".
The bars are what support the ride-height of the Tor-Flex axle. Follow the assembly instructions that come with the
hitch to assemble the parts. *With the Reese hitch you have an adjustable washer to set the ball angle. We recommend
as close to vertical as possible.
Insert the two 3/4" bolts through the holes and put nuts on finger tight for now. Lower the trailer down and stop
it just before it gets to the trailer ball.
Locate the correct placement
on the trailer tongue for the equalizer bar chain brackets so the chains are vertical and attach the brackets. Next thing
to do is hook the chains up to those brackets. Lower the trailer until it just covers the ball, no weight on the ball yet.
Now hook the equalizer bars up. **I recommend having the equalizer bars on the 5th link from the top as a starting
point. Now lower the trailer down onto the ball. Take note of how much the Trailer Toad compresses. If it went farther than
the 1" or 2” you allowed for, raise the trailer up and try the 6th link from the end of the chain and
see what you get. Do the opposite if the Toad does not compress enough.
After you try
that and if the trailer ball is still too low. Example: Let’s say you want 20” but it settles to 19”, you
will need to raise the trailer up and move the hitch head up one hole and try it again. When everything is level and you are
satisfied with the trailer coupler height you can tighten the large bolts. Try to set the heights so the trailer is level
and the mainframe on the Trailer Toad tips slightly (about 1" from rear to front of Toad) downward towards the tow vehicle.
If it doesn't, we recommend you lower the front mount to get it to that height.
**TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS on the Trailer
Toad hitch parts and check all bolts and wheel lugs to make sure they are tightened. Recheck the fasteners after 25 and 150
miles on the first trip you make.
Note: To backup with the Trailer Toad or if you will be maneuvering around in a parking area be sure to lower
the "reverse lock bar" to the pin on the axle. This means, all three pins will be in the Reverse Bar. This
will lock the axle in place and backing up will be simple. It is OK to leave the Reverse Bar locked down (all three pins being
used) in the pit area or if you are where you may have to do some maneuvering to get your trailer straight.
When you are ready to pull out of your parking area and are done backing up, hook the
"reverse lock bar" back up to upper "stored position” pins and secure with the two upper clip pins. WARNING:
Do not tow on highway or streets with Reverse Bar in the lower holes and hooked to axle. This will prevent the
axle from pivoting and will scuff the tires sideways. Doing that will cause excessive tire wear and the Trailer
Toad will not follow your tow vehicle as designed. If all you have to do is maneuver the trailer around, like at the racetrack
or your driveway you can leave the Reverse Bar locked down to the axle to save some time. **In the event of a shock absorber
or attachment failure you can tow with the Reverse Bar in the down and locked position for a short period of time but it will
accelerate tire wear.
The first Trailer Toad I set up took about an hour and a half.
Now I am doing it in about an hour. After you are finished you will enjoy a much safer and smoother trip while towing your
trailer. If you have any questions or problems call me, Jok Nicholson, at (319) 404-7001 or go to my website, www.trailertoad.com for additional information. Please read the Company Policies page I have attached. It can save both of us a lot of confusion
in the event the Toad is damaged during shipment, etc.
Manufactured under U.S. Patent 6,820,887
