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Assembly Tips, Stabilizer Bar Kit

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Trailer Toad Assembly Instructions.

These instructions will help guide you through the "Basic Setup" to get your Trailer Toad assembled and attached to your tow vehicle and trailer. The "Fine Tuning" will be up to each owner and if you have a question, please call me: (319) 404-7001 Jok Nicholson

   The Trailer-Toad comes about 90% assembled. Trailer Ball strength is critical. Make sure the trailer ball you use is rated for the total weight of your trailer. If you cannot find a trailer ball that is rated high enough for your trailer, we offer a 25,000-lb rated 2-5/16" ball for $29.95. You can order through our Products Page. The 2017 Trailer Toad 3500HD and 5000HD will come with only the fenders not installed. We have welded four threaded studs on brackets, attach fenders with provided fasteners. All new Trailer Toads come with a "T-Handle" attached to the pallet. The bolts to attach it to the rear of the Toad are in the large brown box on the pallet. DO NOT use these bolts for anything but the T-Handle, they are not hardened bolts.

You will need a quality weight-distribution hitch to complete the assembly and final adjustments.

 

If you do not have one we can recommend brands we are familiar with or we can send you one on the same pallet as the new Trailer Toad at a discounted price.


The first thing to do is make sure you have all the tools you will need. Here is a basic checklist:
* 1/2" open end wrench. For fender fasteners.
* 1/2" socket and ratchet. For fender fasteners.
* 3/4" open end or adjustable Crescent wrench. For equalizer bar brackets on trailer tongue.
* 13/16" or 3/4"socket and torque wrench to torque lug nuts on wheels. 75 ft. lbs. This requires a thin wall socket, like a 3/8" drive spark plug socket.
* 1-1/16" and 1-1/8" open-end wrenches and 1/2" drive sockets. For hitch head and drawbar bolts.
* Couple of wire-ties to fasten the extension cord to the metal tabs on top of the frame to secure it.
* Large pipe-wrench or 1-13/16" socket to tighten trailer ball with. You will also need a large wrench to jam between the nut on the ball and the hitch head to prevent it from turning as you tighten the ball. There might be a better tool for this but I haven't found one yet. Make sure it is has Loctite on the threads and you tighten it to at least 200 ft. lbs.

Stabilizer Bar Kit: **Optional on the 3500HD, Standard Equipment n the 5000SD: You will notice there are No Stabilizer Bars in the kit. We need a measurement before we can send the bars to you, at no additional cost. Follow instructions in the Stabilizer Bar Kit box. You will need 15/16" wrench and socket to attach rod end to the Trailer Toad and a mig-welder to attach the two brackets to the hitch or frame and 3/4" open-end and 3/4" socket to attach the rod ends on the tow vehicle end.

You MUST use a weight-distribution hitch with the Trailer Toad.

 

 

 

Procedures for setting up your Trailer Toad.

 

important! please read these instructions!!

 

Whether you are setting up a new one or want to make sure you current Trailer Toad is "carrying the load"; these instructions make for correct installation..

 

Block the trailer tires and get the trailer level. Measure how high the ball needs to be with the coupler at this "level height".

Do NOT have the Trailer Toad attached to the tow vehicle. It is critical you set the Toad up with the just the trailer. The tow vehicle comes later. 

*With the Trailer Toad held up in front with a floor jack, put the hitch head on the rear of the Trailer Toad so the ball is 1.5" to 2" higher than the measurement needed when trailer is level. No need to tighten the fasteners yet, you may need to adjust them again.

*Raise the trailer with tongue jack and roll the Trailer Toad under the trailer and lower the trailer until the coupler is just starting to rest on the ball, latch the coupler. This is where the small floor jack comes in handy. If you use the kickstand it could be ruined when you lower trailer onto the Toad, please use a jack.

*Install the weight distribution bars in the hitch head and hook the chains up or set the bar on the bracket (depends on brand of W.D. hitch). There should be no-preload on the W.D. bars or chains, just as snug as you can get by hand.

*Lower the tongue jack until all the weight is on the Trailer Toad and the tongue jack is off the ground. *Make sure the trailer tires are blocked in place, the trailer can now roll.

*Check the angle of the Trailer Toad and also see if the trailer returned to a level position.

*If the Trailer Toad is not level (we would actually like a very slight tip down towards the tow vehicle) you can adjust this by readjusting the weight-distribution bars. Shorten them to lower front of the Trailer Toad and lengthen them to raise the front of the Trailer Toad.

*Once you are satisfied with the angle (or tip) of the Trailer Toad now you can make a final check to see if the trailer is level. if not, you may have to raise or lower the hitch head on the rear of the Trailer Toad. Do not use the bars to try to level the trailer.

*Now that the Trailer Toad is level and the trailer is level you can focus on getting the front drawbar height set. With tow vehicle level and sitting at ride height measure from the ground to the center of the receiver hitch opening.

*Next, hold the front of the Trailer Toad level with the ground and put your drawbar in the holes that get you as close to the same height as your receiver measurement.

*Unhook the Trailer Toad from the trailer and using the Toad T-Handle, roll the Trailer Toad up to the rear of the tow vehicle and insert the drawbar into the receiver hitch. *This takes a bit of patience and some spray lubricant and maybe a "helper" to guide the square drawbar into the square receiver opeing.

*Once it is in place insert the retaining pin or bolt to secure the drawbar in the hitch. back the Trailer Toad under the trailer and reattach the weight distribution bars to the same chain lengths or "L-bracket", depending on the W.D. hitch you have, and that should finish the installation.

***Make sure you tighten all the bolts, attach safety chains, check trailer lights and tire pressures. Always double-check safety equipment when towing.

 

Patience is important. Getting the final adjustments "just right" is worth the extra time as it will make your first trip easier. If you have any questions; call us:

 

(319) 404-7001.

 

 

You can use your existing weight-distribution hitch or purchase a new one locally. If you want one of the hitches we supply just give us a call. We will be glad to help you decide which one will be best for your application.


Note: To backup with the Trailer Toad or if you will be maneuvering around in a parking area be sure to LOWER the Reverse Pins into the tube on the axle to lock the axle in a straight position. This means both pins will be in place. This will lock the axle in place and backing up will be simple. It is OK to leave the Reverse Pins locked in while you drive around the pit area or if you are where you may have to do some maneuvering to get your trailer straight.

 **2017 Trailer Toad 3500HD and 5000SD models are equipped with the new "Dual-Pin Lock" Reverse System. Due to the larger tires and the drag they create we recommend using the "Dual-Pin Lock" system when possible. This is due to the tires and trailer weight putting more load on the Reverse Bar pins. I feel it is better to spend 15 seconds longer getting both sides of the Trailer Toad locked in place than possible tearing one of the pins off the Trailer Toad frame or axle. We added the "Dual-Pin Lock" system to prevent problems for our customers. Spraying the pins with lithium grease once in a while will let the pins drop into place easier.

 


   When you are ready to pull out of your parking area and are done backing up, Lift the "Dual-Pin" Locks pins out and put in their stored position (held up by the snap pins on the cable.) WARNING: Do not tow on highway or streets with "Dual-Lock" pins inserted. This puts excessive load on your drawbar. This will prevent the axle from pivoting and will scuff the tires sideways. Doing that will cause excessive tire wear and the Trailer Toad will not follow your tow vehicle as designed. If all you have to do is maneuver the trailer around, like at the racetrack or your driveway you can leave the "Dual-Pin" lock pins in the locked position to save some time.

**In the event of a shock absorber or attachment failure you can tow with the "Dual-Lock Pins" in the locked position for a short period of time but it will accelerate tire wear and cause extra stress on your drawbar. Our Stabilizer Bar Kit will help reduce these excessive loads.

If you have any questions or problems call me, Jok Nicholson, at (319) 404-7001 or go to my website, www.trailertoad.com for additional information.

Please read the Company Policies page I have attached. It can save both of us a lot of confusion in the event the Toad is damaged during shipment, etc.

Manufactured under U.S. Patent 6,820,887

Hold the drawbar level to set the height.
drawbarheight.JPG
This should match the height of your receiver hitch opening
This receiver was higher than most, 19.5"
Drawbar_into_Receiver.JPG
Drawbar was flipped over to keep front of Toad slanted down towards coach.
Print

Stabilizer Bar Kit
StabilizerBarKit.JPG

**Stabilizer Bar Kit- an option you might need.
1. Eliminate the "slop" between the draw bar and the receiver tube.
2. Takes the stress off receiver tube opening when backing up, this prevents "stretching out the receiver tube opening".
These are common problems and we have a great way to fix it.
This is a required upgrade for those of you with trailers over 10,000 lbs no matter how tight the draw bar fit is in the receiver hitch. The reason we recommend this is, there is a tremendous side load on the drawbar and receiver tube when backing up. The Stabilizer Bars help spread that load out and can prevent bending or breaking the draw bar or splitting the receiver tube.
We are offering a "Stabilizer Bar" kit to help reduce the "looseness" and "wandering" of the front of the trailer when the draw bar is loose in the receiver hitch tube.
"Do you have this problem?
Here is a quick way to find out:
Unhook the trailer and pull ahead a foot or so. Grab the back of the Trailer Toad (it took me and my son) and see if you can slide it sideways. If it moves more than an inch, it means your draw bar is not a tight fit in the hitch receiver tube. I would consider the "stabilizer bars" or something similar you fabricate yourself.
If you want some help deciding on how to get your Trailer Toad equipped with Stabilizer Bars just call or email me and we can work it out.
We have Stabilizer Bar kits available right now. All we need is a measurement from the mounting hole on your Trailer Toad 3500HD to the main tube on your tow vehicle hitch.
For some customers it will be easy to copy what I did because you have the equipment. For others, we will make them for you.
           Cost of the complete Stabilizer Bar Kit is $149.95.
The Stabilizer Bar kit consists of:
 two-5/8" RH rod-ends,
two-5/8"-1/2" bore LH rod-ends,
4 jam nuts,
two- threaded steel stabilzer bars,
two special brackets that can be bolted on or welded on (that choice is up to the customer).
We need the meausurement from where you can mount the bracket on the hitch (side panels seem to work the best) to the center of the threaded hole on the outer end panel on the Trailer Toad. From that measurement we can make the Stabilizer Kit and send it out the next day.

Stab_Bar_Brkt_OnToad.JPG
Stabilizer Bar rod-end attached to Trailer Toad.
This brackeet is bolted on, we prefer welding
StabBarOnHitch.JPG
Welding the bracket to the hitch or frame is recommended.

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Trailer Toad LLC * PO Box 448 * Janesville * IA* 50647
 Phone: (319) 404-7001 email: jok@trailertoad.com

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