Trailer Toad Assembly Instructions.
These instructions
will help guide you through the "Basic Setup" to get your Trailer Toad assembled and attached to your tow vehicle
and trailer. The "Fine Tuning" will be up to each owner and if you have a question, please call me: (319) 404-7001
Jok Nicholson
The Trailer-Toad comes about 90% assembled. We are supplying a new trailer ball with each Trailer Toad unit. It is
a 25K-rated 2-5/16” ball, the best we can find. If you need to fine tune your setup and need a shorter ball, they are
available at most RV or auto parts stores. I recommend a 12,000 lb minimum rating on the ball, a higher rating is even better.
The 2010 Trailer Toad 3500HD will come with only the fenders not installed. We have welded
four threaded studs on brackets, attach fenders with provided fasteners.
The first thing to do is make sure you have all the tools you will need. Here is a basic checklist:
* 1/2" open end wrench. For fender fasteners.
* 1/2" socket and ratchet. For fender fasteners.
*
3/4" open end or adjustable Crescent wrench. For equalizer bar brackets on trailer tongue.
* 13/16" socket
and torque wrench to torque lug nuts on wheels. 75 ft. lbs.
* 1-1/16" and 1-1/8" open-end wrenches and
1/2" drive sockets. For hitch head and drawbar bolts.
* Couple of wire-ties to fasten the extension cord to
the metal tabs on top of the frame to secure it.
* Large pipe-wrench or 1-13/16" socket to tighten
trailer ball with. You will also need a large wrench to jam between the nut on the ball and the hitch head to prevent it from
turning as you tighten the ball. There might be a better tool for this but I haven't found one yet. Make sure it is has
Loctite on the threads and you tighten it to at least 150 ft. lbs.
***If you purchased the Stabilizer Bar Kit: You will need a 1/2" 6-pt. allen head
wrench for the attachment bolt.
You MUST use a weight-distribution hitch with the Trailer Toad.
***Call
us if you have any questions about this***
You can use your existing weight-distribution
hitch or purchase a new one locally. If you want one of the hitches we supply just give us a call. We will be glad to help
you decide which one will be best for your application. If you use your exisiting weight-distribution hitch
and drawbar, take the hitch head off as it will bolt to the rear of the Trailer Toad. Once you have it apart slip the hitch
head over the 2"x3" drilled bar stock on the Trailer Toad. Slide in the lower bolt and attach the nut and
snug it up for now. Keep the head tilted as far forward as you can so the ball is vertical and as parallel to the
rear panel of the Trailer Toad as possible. If your hitch head uses a spacer with shims; shim it so hitch ball is as vertical
as possible. Attach the nut and snug it up for now. Insert the Equalizer bars and now you can push down on the equalizer
bars and moving the Trailer Toad around just got a lot easier. It will be similar to moving a wheel barrow. You can also purchase
a "Toad-Toter" handle that makes moving the Trailer Toad around a lot easier. (look in our Product Catalog).
Next, when you insert the drawbar and bolts in the front, the chip-resistant powder-coat paint on the Toad sometimes
makes the bolts tough to slide in so you may want to remove the paint from the holes in the front of the Toad with sandpaper
or emery cloth. Line up the holes in your L-shaped draw bar and the holes in the front of the Trailer-Toad frame. Everyone’s
hitch seems to be a different height so I start by trying to get the top of the front cross-member about 18" from the
ground.Just make sure you lube either the draw bar or the inside of the receiver with grease or anti-seize before you slide
it in the receiver opening. Insert two of the hardened bolts, slip the washers on and snug up the 3/4” nuts.
The front two brackets on the Trailer Toad will have bushings on one side. These sometimes are stuck due to paint
build-up. You can tap them in or out to make room for the drawbar. They will push in against the draw-bar when you tighten
the bolts when you are done with setup. Just make sure you have the bushings in place, otherwise the bolts will be loose in
the mounting holes. You may have to adjust it so there is no need to tighten the fasteners until you are sure the
draw bar is at the correct height.
The next step is to get the new hitch-head set at the correct
height. Once you have the hitch head on the Toad, install the new trailer ball. Using the Toad’s weight you can get
the trailer ball retaining nut tight. I recommend you use Red Loctite on the threads. With your trailer on level ground or
by calling the manufacturer, determine the correct ride height of the coupler of the trailer. Standard height is between 19
inches and 20 inches. I adjust the top of the ball 1" to 2" higher than the trailer coupler recommended height.
Heavier trailers can start higher. Your actual tongue weight will determine how much compression you will need to allow for.
This allows the Trailer Toad torsion axle to settle somewhat and end up at the correct height for the top of the trailer ball.
IMPORTANT: You MUST use weight-distribution bars for the Trailer Toad to function correctly.
Without the weight-distribution bars the rear of the Trailer Toad will "roll downward" and bounce more than
it needs to. The bars are what limits excess up and down travel. Follow the assembly instructions that come with your
hitch to assemble the parts. * We suggest getting the ball pushed forward, as vertical as possible.
Insert the two 3/4"
bolts through the holes and put nuts on, tighten bolts so hitch head will not slip.
Put
a floor jack under the front shock mount and level the Toad out, Remove the kickstand for now.
Lower
the trailer down and stop it just as it begins to cover the trailer ball.
If you are using your original hitch you will not need to adjust the equalizer bar brackets. If you are installing new hitch
parts you need to locate the correct placement on the trailer tongue for the equalizer bar chain brackets so the
chains on the equalizer bars are vertical and attach the brackets. Tighten the chain hanger brackets to the trailer frame.
Lower the trailer until it just covers the ball, no weight on the ball yet. Now hook the equalizer bar chains up to whatever
link you can snap up by hand. Now lower the trailer down onto the ball. Go slowly and watch the Trailer Toad compress. Take
note of how much the Trailer Toad compresses. If it went farther than the 1" or 2” you allowed for, raise
the trailer up and shorten the chain one link from the end of the chain and see what you get. Do the opposite if the Toad
does not compress enough.
After you try that and if the trailer ball is still too low. Example:
Let’s say you want 20” but it settles to 19”, you will need to raise the trailer up and move the hitch head
up one hole and try it again. When everything is level and you are satisfied with the trailer coupler height you
can tighten the large bolts. Try to set the heights so the trailer is level and the mainframe on the Trailer Toad is
level to no more than one inch from rear to front of Toad, downward, towards the tow vehicle. If it doesn't, we
recommend you lower the front mount to get it to that height.
If you are satified with the hitch ball height and
the trailer is level. Leave the Equalizer Bars attached, make sure you block the trailer tires to prevent the trailer
from rolling, and raise the trailer tongue jack. Yes, the trailer will sit there without the tongue jack if you have
the equalizer bars attached and they are tight when trailer was lowered. Now you can also lower the floor jack that is under
the shock brackets to see if the Trailer Toad is sitting level. It should be level to slightly lower in front. You can now
grab the drawbar (shank) and lift it by hand...that is how much weight your tow vehice wil have on it. Not very much is it?
Measure the height of the opening of your tow vehicle's receiver hitch. (Let's say it id 19" to the middle). Now,
hold the drawbar level, you will have to lift up on it. Measure where the center of the drawbar is. You will need to raise
or lower the drawbar to get it as close the same height as the opening of your tow vehicle reciver hitch (in this example
19"). When you know what holes you want to use, insert the bolts, make sure bushings are in place under the bolts and
washers and tighten the nuts on the drawbar retaining bolts.
**TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS on the Trailer Toad hitch parts
and check all bolts and wheel lugs to make sure they are tightened. Recheck the fasteners after 25 and 150 miles on the first
trip you make.
Note:
To backup with the Trailer Toad or if you will be maneuvering around in a parking area be sure to put the Reverse Pins
into the tube on the axle to lock the axle in a straight position. This means both pins will be in place. This
will lock the axle in place and backing up will be simple. It is OK to leave the Reverse Pins locked in while you
drive around the pit area or if you are where you may have to do some maneuvering to get your trailer straight. **2010.5
Trailer Toad 3500HD model will be equipped with the new "Dual-Pin Lock" Reverse System. Due to the larger tires
and the drag they create we recommend using the "Dual-Pin Lock" system when possible. This is due to the tires and
trailer weight putting more load on the Reverse Bar pins. I feel it is better to spend 15 seconds longer getting both
sides of the Trailer Toad locked in place than possible tearing one of the pins off the Trailer Toad frame or axle. We
added the "Dual-Pin Lock" system to prevent problems for our customers. Paint build-up makes the pin a
tight fit, a little sandpaper or scraping the inside of the pin hole will make it easier for the Reverse Pins to slide into
place.
When you are ready to pull out of your parking area and
are done backing up, Lift the "Dual-Pin" Locks pins out and put in their stored position if your Trailer Toad
was so equipped.. WARNING: Do not tow on highway or streets with "Dual-Lock"
pins inserted. This puts excessive load on your drawbar. This will prevent the axle from pivoting and will scuff the
tires sideways. Doing that will cause excessive tire wear and the Trailer Toad will not follow your tow vehicle
as designed. If all you have to do is maneuver the trailer around, like at the racetrack or your driveway you can leave the
"Dual-Pin" lock pins in the locked position to save some time. **In the event of a shock absorber
or attachment failure you can tow with the "Dual-Lock Pins" in the locked position for a short period
of time but it will accelerate tire wear and cause extra stress on your drawbar. Our Stabilizer Bar Kit will help reduce
these excessive loads.
The first Trailer Toad I set up took
about two hours. Now I am doing it in about 30 minutes. After you are finished you will enjoy a much safer and smoother trip
while towing your trailer.
If you have any questions or problems
call me, Jok Nicholson, at (319) 404-7001 or go to my website, www.trailertoad.com for additional information. Please read the Company Policies page I have attached. It can save both of us a lot of confusion
in the event the Toad is damaged during shipment, etc.
Manufactured under U.S. Patent 6,820,887
