Trailer Toad Assembly Instructions.
These instructions
will help guide you through the "Basic Setup" to get your Trailer Toad assembled and attached to your tow vehicle
and trailer. The "Fine Tuning" will be up to each owner and if you have a question, please call me: (319) 404-7001
Jok Nicholson
The Trailer-Toad comes about 90% assembled. Trailer Ball strength is critical. Make sure the trailer ball you
use is rated for the total weight of your trailer. If you cannot find a trailer ball that is rated high enough for your
trailer, we offer a 25,000-lb rated 2-5/16" ball for $19.95. You can order through our Products Page. The
2011 Trailer Toad 3500HD and 5000HD will come with only the fenders not installed. We have welded four threaded
studs on brackets, attach fenders with provided fasteners.
The
first thing to do is make sure you have all the tools you will need. Here is a basic checklist:
* 1/2"
open end wrench. For fender fasteners.
* 1/2" socket and ratchet. For fender fasteners.
* 3/4" open end
or adjustable Crescent wrench. For equalizer bar brackets on trailer tongue.
* 13/16" socket and torque wrench
to torque lug nuts on wheels. 75 ft. lbs. This requires a thin wall socket, like a 3/8" drive spark plug socket.
*
1-1/16" and 1-1/8" open-end wrenches and 1/2" drive sockets. For hitch head and drawbar bolts.
*
Couple of wire-ties to fasten the extension cord to the metal tabs on top of the frame to secure it.
*
Large pipe-wrench or 1-13/16" socket to tighten trailer ball with. You will also need a large wrench to jam between the
nut on the ball and the hitch head to prevent it from turning as you tighten the ball. There might be a better tool for this
but I haven't found one yet. Make sure it is has Loctite on the threads and you tighten it to at least 200 ft. lbs.
***If you purchased the Stabilizer Bar Kit: You
will need 15/16" wrench and socket to attach black rod end to the Trailer Toad and 3/4" wrench and socket to tighten
the bolts that go through the brackets and silver rod ends on the tow vehicle end.
You MUST use a weight-distribution hitch with the Trailer Toad.
***Call
us if you have any questions about this***
You can use your existing weight-distribution
hitch or purchase a new one locally. If you want one of the hitches we supply just give us a call. We will be glad to help
you decide which one will be best for your application. If you use your exisiting weight-distribution hitch
and drawbar, take the hitch head off as it will bolt to the rear of the Trailer Toad. Once you have it apart slip the hitch
head over the 2"x3" drilled bar stock on the Trailer Toad so the ball is about 2" higher than where
it would be to make trailer level. Slide in the lower bolt and attach the nut and snug it up for now. Keep the head tilted
as far forward as you can so the ball is vertical and as parallel to the rear panel of the Trailer Toad as possible. If your
hitch head uses a spacer with shims; shim it so hitch ball is as vertical as possible. Attach the nut and snug it up for now. Insert
the Equalizer bars and now you can push down on the equalizer bars and moving the Trailer Toad around just got a lot easier.
It will be similar to moving a wheel barrow. You can also purchase a "Toad-Toter" handle that makes moving the Trailer
Toad around a lot easier. (look in our Product Catalog). If you have unhook your Trailer Toad very often, the Toad-Toter handle
is a back-saver.
The next step is to get the hitch-head
set at the correct height. Using the. I recommend you use Red Loctite on the threads if you install a new trailer ball. With
your trailer on level ground or by calling the manufacturer, determine the correct ride height of the coupler of the trailer.
Standard height is between 19 inches and 20 inches. I adjust the top of the ball about 2" higher than the trailer
coupler recommended height. Heavier trailers can start higher. Your actual tongue weight will determine how much compression
you will need to allow for. This allows the Trailer Toad torsion axle to settle somewhat and end up at the correct height
for the top of the trailer ball.
IMPORTANT: You MUST use weight-distribution bars for
the Trailer Toad to function correctly. Without the weight-distribution bars the rear of the Trailer Toad will "roll
downward" and bounce more than it needs to. The bars are what limits excess up and down travel. Follow the assembly
instructions that come with your hitch to assemble the parts. * We suggest getting the ball pushed forward,
as vertical as possible.
Insert the two 3/4" bolts through the holes and put nuts on, tighten
bolts so hitch head will not slip.
Put a floor jack under the front shock mount and level the Toad
out, Remove the kickstand for now.
Lower the trailer down and stop it just as it begins
to cover the trailer ball.
If you are using your original hitch you will not
need to move the weight distribution bar chain brackets. If you are installing new hitch parts you need to
locate the correct placement on the trailer tongue for the equalizer bar chain brackets so the chains on the equalizer
bars are vertical and attach the brackets. Tighten the chain hanger brackets to the trailer frame. Lower the trailer until
it just covers the ball, no weight on the ball yet. Now hook the equalizer bar chains up to whatever link you can snap
up by hand. Now lower the trailer down onto the ball. Go slowly and watch the Trailer Toad compress. Take note
of how much the Trailer Toad compresses. If it went farther than the 1" or 2” you allowed for, raise the
trailer up and shorten the chain one link from the end of the chain and see what you get. Do the opposite if the Toad does
not compress enough.
After you try that and if the trailer ball is still too low. Example:
Let’s say you want 20” but it settles to 19”, you will need to raise the trailer up and move the hitch head
up one hole and try it again. When everything is level and you are satisfied with the trailer coupler height you
can tighten the large bolts. This setting should never really change if the trailer stays loaded the same.
If you are satified
with the hitch ball height and the trailer is level. Leave the Weight-Distribution Bars attached, make sure you
block the trailer tires to prevent the trailer from rolling, and raise the trailer tongue jack. Yes, the trailer
will sit there without the tongue jack if you have the equalizer bars attached and they are tight when trailer was lowered.
Now you can also lower the floor jack that is under the shock brackets or first crossmember until the Trailer Toad is
sitting level. It should be level to slightly (1/2" to 1") lower in front. You can now grab the drawbar (shank)
and lift it by hand...that is how much weight your tow vehice wil have on it. Not very much is it? The resistance you feel
is the stabilizer shocks.
Measure the height of the opening of your tow vehicle's receiver hitch. (Let's say it is 17"
to the middle). Now, hold the drawbar level, you will have to lift up on it. Measure where the center of the drawbar is. You
will need to raise or lower the drawbar to get it as close the same height as the opening of your tow vehicle reciver hitch
(in this example 17"). When you know what holes you want to use, insert the bolts, make sure the two bushings are in
place under the bolts and washers on one side and tighten the nuts on the drawbar retaining bolts.
**TIGHTEN
ALL BOLTS on the Trailer Toad hitch parts and check all bolts and wheel lugs to make sure they are tightened. Recheck the
fasteners after 25 and 150 miles on the first trip you make.
Note: To backup with the Trailer Toad or if you will be maneuvering around
in a parking area be sure to put the Reverse Pins into the tube on the axle to lock the axle in a straight position. This
means both pins will be in place. This will lock the axle in place and backing up will be simple. It is OK to leave the Reverse
Pins locked in while you drive around the pit area or if you are where you may have to do some maneuvering to get
your trailer straight. **2011 Trailer Toad 3500HD and 5000SD models are equipped with
the new "Dual-Pin Lock" Reverse System. Due to the larger tires and the drag they create we recommend using the
"Dual-Pin Lock" system when possible. This is due to the tires and trailer weight putting more load on the
Reverse Bar pins. I feel it is better to spend 15 seconds longer getting both sides of the Trailer Toad locked
in place than possible tearing one of the pins off the Trailer Toad frame or axle. We added the "Dual-Pin Lock"
system to prevent problems for our customers. Spraying the pins with lithium grease once in a while will let the
pins drop into place easier.
When you are ready to pull out of your
parking area and are done backing up, Lift the "Dual-Pin" Locks pins out and put in their stored position
(held up by the snap pins on the cable.) WARNING: Do not tow on highway or streets
with "Dual-Lock" pins inserted. This puts excessive load on your drawbar. This will prevent the axle from pivoting
and will scuff the tires sideways. Doing that will cause excessive tire wear and the Trailer Toad will not follow
your tow vehicle as designed. If all you have to do is maneuver the trailer around, like at the racetrack or your driveway
you can leave the "Dual-Pin" lock pins in the locked position to save some time. **In the event
of a shock absorber or attachment failure you can tow with the "Dual-Lock Pins" in the locked position
for a short period of time but it will accelerate tire wear and cause extra stress on your drawbar. Our Stabilizer Bar
Kit will help reduce these excessive loads.
The first Trailer
Toad I set up took about two hours. Now I am doing it in about 30 minutes. After you are finished you will enjoy a much safer
and smoother trip while towing your trailer.
If you have any
questions or problems call me, Jok Nicholson, at (319) 404-7001 or go to my website, www.trailertoad.com for additional information. Please read the Company Policies page I have attached. It can save both of us a lot of confusion
in the event the Toad is damaged during shipment, etc.
Manufactured under U.S. Patent 6,820,887
