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Setup Instructions for 3500HD and 5000SD models.
Important! Read and follow these instructions!Whether you are setting up a new Trailer Toad or want to make sure your current Trailer Toad is “carrying the tongue weight”; these instructions make for a correct installation. Block the trailer tires and get the trailer level, DO NOT set up with Toad attached to the tow vehicle..
*Measure how high the ball needs to be in the coupler with the trailer at the loaded "level height". (Make a note of this measurement). *We recommend taking the spare tire off the Trailer Toad for installation, it makes the Toad lighter, easier to move and easier to see the front shank attachment.. *With the Trailer Toad held up in front with a floor jack, positioned under front shock mount, raise it until the frame is about 1"-2" higher in the rear. (The "Kickstand" that comes with the Toad is about the right height to start the setup. Install the hitch head on the rear of the Trailer Toad so the ball is 1.5" to 2" higher from the ground than the coupler height on trailer when trailer is level. No need to tighten the fasteners yet, you may need to adjust them again. Just snug them up so they will stay in place.*Raise the trailer with tongue jack and roll the Trailer Toad under the trailer and lower the trailer until the coupler can be attached to the trailer ball. Latch it so it can’t roll away or fall out. Remove the kickstand, if you were using it, or the floor jack. We want no support under the front of the Toad. It is basically hanging from the coupler on the trailer. Let the trailer down slowly and the Toad will begin to “straighten and level out”. Stop when trailer is about 1” too high in front. *Install the weight distribution bars in the hitch head and hook the chains up or set the bar on the bracket (depends on how bars attach on your W.D. hitch). There should be no-preload on the W.D. bars or chains at this time, just as snug as you can get by hand. *Retract the tongue jack until all the weight is on the Trailer Toad and the tongue jack is off the ground. You will see the WD bars start to get tighter*Make sure the trailer tires are blocked in place, the trailer can now roll. *The goal is to get the Trailer Toad about 1/2" to 1" higher in the rear and the trailer in a level position with tongue jack retracted. *If the Trailer Toad level or slightly lower in the rear, you can adjust this by readjusting the weight-distribution bars. Raise them to lower front of the Trailer Toad and lengthen the chains or bracket to raise the front of the Trailer Toad.*Once you are satisfied the Toad is as level as you can get it, you can make a final check to see if the trailer is level. if it isn’t, you may have to raise or lower the hitch head on the rear of the Trailer Toad. (Moving WD bars now only tips the Toad, it will not raise trailer.) *Now that the Trailer Toad is level and the trailer is level you can focus on getting the front drawbar height set. With tow vehicle level and sitting at ride height measure from the ground to the center of the receiver hitch opening. *Next, install drawbar in front holes, hold the drawbar level with the ground, see what holes will get you as close to the same height as your receiver measurement. Use those holes. Make sure you hold the drawbar (shank) level to get the correct height.*Unhook the Trailer Toad from the trailer and using the Toad T-Handle roll the Trailer Toad up to the rear of the tow vehicle and insert the drawbar into the receiver hitch. *This takes a bit of patience and some spray lubricant. Getting it started straight is important. (Tech Tip- We have used rope or a ratchet tie-down wrapped around the shank back to spare tire mount and pulled tight enough to hold shank level while you work on getting in the receiver opening.) *Once it is in place insert the retaining pin or bolt to secure the drawbar in the hitch. back the Trailer Toad under the trailer and reattach the weight distribution bars to the same chain lengths or "L-bracket", depending on the W.D. hitch you have, and that should finish the installation. ***Make sure you tighten all the bolts, attach safety chains, check trailer lights, torque lug nuts to 100-ft/lbs. (Do this again at 100 & 200 miles and before each trip) and check tire pressures (70-80 psi). Always double check safety equipment when towing. This setup will “test your patience” a bit. It will be worth it to take your time because if you get the setup on the first attempt, you are pretty much don't have to change it.
SHORT-CUT SETUP METHOD:
I have been asked if there is an easier way to get the setup. There is, but you just have to make sure the Trailer Toad suspension is "compressing" and is not lifted by the WD bars. I will try to keep this short. The first part is a bit of a guess; put the Toad on the kickstand and put the L-shaped shank between the front brackets. Take a guess. Hold that shank level and see how close you came to it being level with receiver hitch opening, adjust to different holes as needed. Put the hitch head on the rear so it is as close to the height it needs to be when the trailer is level. Back it under the trailer, lower trailer down over the ball, as it starts to compress the Trailer Toad and the trailer is about level put the WD bars on and they shoud get tight about the time the trailer gets level. This will vary a bit with different tongue weights but THE MOST IMPORTANT PART IS- make sure the Trailer Toad suspension is compressed when the tongue jack is retracted and WD bars are on.